I had the pleasure of riding the local bus with all the local community members when on holiday in Kenya back in 1995. My husband and I were adventurous and felt that the only way to really understand and appreciate the country of choice , was to get out amongst the locals.
The bus which had a seating capacity of 52, had approximately 100 passengers squeezed onto the 52 seats and about another 100 or so men women and children were either stood in the isles or hanging off the outside of the bus.
So picture the scene, very hot humid days and we were constantly perspiring and our clothes were in a permanent state of ‘damp’. But we very avid bath and shower people, partaking twice daily.
However, the wonderful locals on this bus, wore traditional dress. In men , that consisted of just a short wrap covering their manhood. I’m women, it was merely a wrap of material from their waist down, with no coverage over their boobies.
I think they showered or washed maybe once a month or so. The dirt was ingrained but what was so much worse was the distasteful odour that permeated every sense in your body, you could taste it and smell it and feel it almost. A mixture of ripe bodies , decaying sweat, sex, faeces and period blood. I jest not. But they were so kind to give up seats for the two of us only white foreigners onboard, and we had to accept at the risk of offending them deeply otherwise. The journey seemed to last forever and because we were a novelty, not only were we stared at the whole time but nobody seemed to exit the bus as they wanted to continue to observe these two pink skinned people with blonde hair.
Coupled with high temperature and humidity with no breeze whatsoever, our nostrils were assaulted beyond repair. How I managed not to vomit or rudely hold my nose, I don’t know.! It was the worst smell ever and I think I’m in a good position to make that comment because I’ve had to be present in the mortuary room on hundreds of occasions when the pathologist has undertaken a post mortem, on bodies of various stages of decomposition ( l was in charge of investigating suspicious deaths and murder).