OR OR - Kelly James (dead), Brian Hall, 37, Jerry Cooke, 36, Mt. Hood Climbers, Dec 2006

[Ca-Sun]

The Red Box outlines the detail gully pic posted earlier. Cooper spur is in green, Elliot headwall is in the pink circle, Sunshine route/Elliot Glacier route is about where the dark blue line goes, though it changes depending on the season and the difficulty with crossing the bergschrund. Actual north face gullies are in light blue, both of which are popular (althogh seldom climbed due to difficulty, and a short season when conditions are really good)...

Thanks to CascadeClimbers for the picture.

 

[scandi]

I just hear one little blurb from the Presser that is going on right now. The brother said something so true that you don't usually hear in a situation like this.

They are very family oriented and if all the family isn't here right now, the rest are on their way to Portland. He said in times like this when there are hurdles, you would think they would be down. But their faith in God has made them so strong and they have great faith and are not giving up at all. And the thing he said that you seldon hear people say is they also have faith in these 3 men and their verve and experience and everything that makes them what they are. And that gives them great hope as well. My wording here.

After the 911 call Hood River sent a text message to James that was received although they don't know if it was opened. And unconfirmed reports say on Tuesday evening there was a ping from James' phone when he turned it on.
This gives everyone great hope that Mr James is still alive.

They are prepared to search through Saturday. The storm will be the worst in our area between 8pm and midnight tonight, and we know on top of that mtn it is going to be like class 2 hurricane - maybe 3 with 100mph sustained winds predicted. From the reading I've done one thing he will have to make sure the entrance to the cave doesn't get iced over which will cut off his air.
That does happen. Scandi

 

[scandi]

Did y'all just see the bleep on FOX. Winds will hit 130mph up on top that mtn this afternoon.

Kelly James, the wife of the man in the snow cave said it is one of the worst weather days but our spirits are so high. These are all great men, and all strong and she expects they will all walk off of the mtn.

Oh, and Mr James' cellie was on till 10:30 on Tues night when he turned it off.

 

[Ca-Sun]

A little more information from the presser:
Weather is poor, 1 team is out searching now at the tree line and lower. Drones are in place and ready to go when the weather permits, air support is also on standby. They are trying to confirm that Kelly's phone was turned on last night at 10:55 PM. If this is true, that means he is still alive!

Base camp is at 6000' at Cloud Cap cabin. Monday they were able to go to 8,500' before the weather made them turn back. Yesterday, they could only get to 6,500' due to bad weather conditions. Kelly is between 10,000 and 11,000'.

 

[scandi]

That shot showing the routes to climb the mtn is really aa great vfisual aid Ca-Sun. Thanks.

I thought they were trying to confirm that he turned his phone on about 7:30 Tues night and then back off at about 10:30. It might be confused as it is not confirmed yet, and I heard that on the local channel. Noon is the next update.

 

[Buzz Mills]

12-06-2006 The three experienced back-country enthusiasts, 48-year-old Kelly James, of Dallas, Tex., Brian Hall, 37, also of Dallas, and Jerry "Nikko" Cooke, 36, of New York City, set out last Wednesday to climb the treacherous North Face of Mt. Hood, using a technique known as a "rapid ascent". They were carrying a minimum amount of gear and planned to climb to the 11,239-foot summit and descend to their base camp in just a couple of days. The Tilly Jane Trailhead is at 3900'.

12-07-2006 The three spent the night in the Tilly Jane warming shelter, located at 7000'. The cabin is left open for skiers and climbers to use. It is maintained and stocked with firewood by volunteers. A note was found in the log book that was left by the three men. The note read “12/7/06, Thanks for your hard work on this great Shelter. We did not plan on staying, but the warmth of the fire changed our minds. We climb as a group of 3 and we left a $20 bill. We will leave tomorrow for the north face! Wish us luck! Nikko, B Hall, Krazy Kelly”

12-08-2006 James, Hall, and Cooke were to meet other friends at the Timberline Lodge on Friday afternoon. They failed to show up.

12-09-2006 Friends reported the climbers missing. Hall, and Cooke, dug a snow cave for the injured climber Kellt James, just below the summit, and left him to go and seek help. The climbers had a minimal amount of food but could subsist for some time on the water in snow, and they were at least dressed adequately for the subzero temperatures that can rake the summit.

12-10-2006 On Sunday, Hood River County officials found the hikers' vehicle parked at the Tilly Jane ski trailhead, located at 3900', of the Cooper Spur ski area, with a note.

Kelly James, injured, and in a snow cave almost 11,000 feet up on the North side of Mt. Hood, called his son Jason Sunday afternoon. Kelly sounded disoriented and said he had run into trouble, but did not specify a physical injury.

12-11-2006 Monday, 7:20AM 911 call attempt from high on the North side of the mountain. Call did not get through.

12-12-2006 Tuesday, According to T-Mobile, the cell phone stopped responding to the signals, or “pings."

The latest news: The cell phone of one of three climbers lost on Mount Hood received a signal from the cell phone company late Tuesday night (at 10:55PM), "indicating it was back on," authorities said Thursday. Hood River Sheriff's office confirmed that Kelly James' cell phone sent out a signal late Tuesday night.

12-13-2006 Wednesday, Search confined to below 7000' due to weather.

12-14-2006 Thursday, Plans call for two staging camps on the north and south sides of the mountain so teams could head to the summit quickly if the weather breaks. Snow levels will rise rapidly ahead of the storm today, likely nearing 7000 feet or more in the Oregon Cascades, but they'll plunge precipitously behind the storm. By Friday morning, snow levels are forecast to be down to around 1000-2000 feet in the Washington and northern Oregon Cascades. Winds near the summit are likely to surpass 100 mph Thursday before easing.

http://www.weather.com/newscenter/stormwatch/?from=wxcenter_news

 

[scandi]

Also from the Cascade Climbers blog, here is a one-stop connection to 3 webcams up on Hood:

http://mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C102/

This is Timberline Lodge at 6000' elevation:

 

[Ca-Sun]

That shot showing the routes to climb the mtn is really aa great vfisual aid Ca-Sun. Thanks.

I thought they were trying to confirm that he turned his phone on about 7:30 Tues night and then back off at about 10:30. It might be confused as it is not confirmed yet, and I heard that on the local channel. Noon is the next update.

I took it to mean they thought the phone had been turned on since earlier the phone appeared to be silent.

www.katu.com

By JOSEPH B. FRAZIER Associated Press Writer

COOPER SPUR, Ore. (AP) - The cell phone of one of three climbers lost on Mount Hood received a signal from the cell phone company late Tuesday night, "indicating it was back on," authorities said Thursday.

The brother of missing climber Kelly James, Frank James, said the signal had given the families hope that the climber was still alive and had his wits about him.

On Wednesday, T-Mobile said the phone had gone silent the day before.

 

[scandi]

Yes, I see that now. LOL

Here is our Mt Hood Meadows webcam this morning. Pretty drippy. Don't know the elevation but will find out:

 

[Ca-Sun]

Scandi, are you getting rain or snow now? What is the wind like?The pic from the weather cam looks more like rain, or really, really wet snow.

 

[scandi]

It is raining in Portland and we don't have a forcast for snow. That shot of Meadows I just put up is at 5,300 ' elevation. I don't think that is really rain but the glass from the camera lens is warmer than the snow and so it turns to water upon hitting it. I'll check, but with what is happening here today at 1000' elevation where I am it would be hard to believe at 5300' elevation that would be rain.

 

[Buzz Mills]

It is raining in Portland and we don't have a forcast for snow. That shot of Meadows I just put up is at 5,300 ' elevation. I don't think that is really rain but the glass from the camera lens is warmer than the snow and so it turns to water upon hitting it. I'll check, but with what is happening here today at 1000' elevation where I am it would be hard to believe at 5300' elevation that would be rain.

Scandi, according to the report yesterday, there was warm air moving in ahead of this major storm that would raise the snow level up to about 7000', but on the tail of the storm, the snow level will drop rapidly down to less than 2000.'

From that article: Rain and snowfall will be heavy. Snow levels will rise rapidly ahead of the storm tomorrow, likely nearing 7000 feet or more in the Oregon Cascades, but they'll plunge precipitously behind the storm. By Friday morning, snow levels are forecast to be down to around 1000-2000 feet in the Washington and northern Oregon Cascades.

http://www.weather.com/newscenter/stormwatch/?from=wxcenter_news

 

[Buzz Mills]

Arctic winds blast Mt. Hood searchers

Searchers for three lost climbers on Mount Hood hoped for a weather break today from the wind, snow and ice that has stymied high- and low-tech efforts to rescue them from the mountain's dangerous north face, where they have been reported missing since Sunday.

But forecasters said much worse weather is on the way.

Eighteen inches of new snow dumped in the higher elevations through Wednesday night and into this morning, said Hood River County Sheriff's Deputy Brian Rockett.

"They do not expect the new storm until this afternoon," Rockett said. "That means the Sno-Cat can go up between 6 a.m and 7 a.m." Searchers on Wednesday said they were kept to about 6,200 feet on the 11,239-foot peak where one of the three was last reported to be in a snow cave near the summit. There has been no sign of the other two, who left the cave Saturday, apparently to go for help.

.......................Winds near the summit are likely to surpass 100 mph today before easing, then daytime temperatures above 10,000 feet are to go below zero.

http://www.denverpost.com/extremes/ci_4839328

 

[nanandjim]

At the very least, it doesn't sound good for the two that struck out on their own, does it? Maybe, they found shelter along the way and decided to wait for better weather to continue on.

 

[Buzz Mills]

At the very least, it doesn't sound good for the two that struck out on their own, does it? Maybe, they found shelter along the way and decided to wait for better weather to continue on.

With the heavy weather coming in, I don't think it looks good for any of the climbers, because it's an unknown as to when the Search & Recue teams will reach them. They only have a rough idea as to where Kelly James is, but no idea as to where Hall and Cooke are. As of right now, it appears that Saturday is the earliest that searchers will have any chance to get back up on the mountain, and even Saturday isn't a sure thing.

 

[Ca-Sun]

At the very least, it doesn't sound good for the two that struck out on their own, does it? Maybe, they found shelter along the way and decided to wait for better weather to continue on.

I sure hope they did - I was thinking maybe the weather was too bad so they went back up to Kelly's cave and all 3 are together. It doesn't make much sense that they would, but who knows? They all have adequate clothing and know what to do to survive. I just hope they do. On another forum, before they left, Jerry "Niko" Cooke wrote, "Also will be trying out a half sleeping bag/DAS parka bivy system, will let you all know exactly how much that sucks if I have to use it."

 

[Buzz Mills]

I sure hope they did - I was thinking maybe the weather was too bad so they went back up to Kelly's cave and all 3 are together. It doesn't make much sense that they would, but who knows? They all have adequate clothing and know what to do to survive. I just hope they do. On another forum, before they left, Jerry "Niko" Cooke wrote, "Also will be trying out a half sleeping bag/DAS parka bivy system, will let you all know exactly how much that sucks if I have to use it."

Pategonia Das Parka

http://www.backcountry.com/store/PAT0372/c/s/Patagonia-DAS-Parka-Mens.html

 

[Ca-Sun]

Pategonia Das Parka

http://www.backcountry.com/store/PAT0372/c/s/Patagonia-DAS-Parka-Mens.html

If you order the $264 DAS parka by tomorrow, they will ship it free! What do you think the "half sleeping bag/DAS parka" is, Buzz? I did a search for it, but nothing came up.

 

[Buzz Mills]

If you order the $264 DAS parka by tomorrow, they will ship it free! What do you think the "half sleeping bag/DAS parka" is, Buzz? I did a search for it, but nothing came up.

I saw pictures of what is referred to as a half sleeping bag. It's bag which is about 2/3 the length of a normal sleeping bag; you wear your parka to bed and that serves as the upper part of the sleeping bag. Climbing gear/equipment isn't cheap.

 

[Ca-Sun]

I saw pictures of what is referred to as a half sleep bag. It's bag which is about 2/3 the length of a normal sleeping bag; you wear your parka to bed and that serves as the upper part of the sleeping bag. Climbing gear/equipment isn't cheap.

Ahhh, so that's what it is. Makes sense now why they said, "half sleeping bag." Thank you, Buzz.

Here is a picture of the DAS Parka