WALKING WITH CAUTION ON THE PILGRIMAGE ROUTE
IDEAL.es
http://www.ideal.es/sociedad/201506/24/pies-plomo-ruta-jacobea-20150622120429.html
High season at the Camino de Santiago has arrived without an end to the mystery of the disappearance of pilgrim Denise Pikka Thiem. The Camino is full of fears.
An American woman is missing and several assaults on women have turned the stretch of 14.5 kilometers between Astorga and el Ganso into the most feared track of the Camino de Santiago.
Many pilgrims skip the track and the rest is advised that they "do not go alone or always have someone in their view"
She is 58 years old and travels the Camino de Santiago on her own. Tessa Trudeau came from Vancouver (Canada) encouraged by her brother, a triathlete who was seduced by the messages of mysticism that still accompany this ancient route. "The Camino is a journey to cleanse the mind. I do not carry my phone or computer. I have come to empty myself." Almost a month ago she departed from France, she started the Camino through Roncesvalles and these days of June she has made a stop in Astorga (León) trying to heal some infectious sores on her feet. She is having a quiet breakfast in the cafeteria Gaudi.
At one of the tables of its terrace, with the best view of the Episcopal palace designed by Antoni Gaudi, two and a half months ago all traces were lost of Denise Pikka Thiem, another solitary traveler who also came from across the Atlantic. Methodical and disciplined, she was one of those pilgrims with an outfit of trekking poles and reflective boots. One of the new generation who have replaced the talks in shelters with the advantages of technology. "I spoke with her on Skype every two days to find out if she was all right. But from April 1 on, nothing at all," explains her brother Cedric, who took a plane from the United States as soon as he heard the news. Yesterday it was two months ago that he denounced her disappearance. Cedric endeared himself with the inhabitants of Astorga during the weeks that he participated in the search efforts. Now he awaits news from his native Arizona.
Tessa began to hear rumors about insecurity on the Camino when she arrived in Burgos. The closer she came to Astorga, the louder the murmurs of growing concern resounded.
"Since I started the Camino in Saint Jean Pied de Port (France) I have seen three deaths - she tells it with a neutral voice - The first on the climb to Roncesvalles from hypothermia. The second, in the first Spanish hostel where I slept: a person who suffered a heart attack. And third, a man who drowned near Pamplona. I think I was drunk." The accumulation of misfortunes that this woman tells sounds exceptional. Records of accidents on this route, which over 270,000 people will travel this year, only counted about thirty deaths (almost all by accidents on the road or natural causes) in 25 years. It also sounds exceptional that, despite the experience of this woman who travelled through the French and Navarre regions, lately almost all cases have been concentrated in the Leonese area.
The disappearance off the streets of Astorga of Denise, 41, with Asian features and born in Hong Kong but living in Phoenix (Arizona), has turned the stretch of the Camino between the capital of Maragata region and village of El Ganso ( 14.5 kilometers) in a kind of 'Bermuda Triangle'.
"In the 25 years since the revival of the Camino this disappearance is the first of its kind. And many cities with less passing visitors would prefer to have the rate of danger that we do," Juan Carlos Perez, the president of the Association of Friends of the Camino de Astorga, reassures.
But the case of Denise has unleashed the fears and warnings. Maureen, from New York, reported that a cyclist tried several times to fondle her breasts. It happened between Acebo and Molinaseca, 30 kilometers from where the missing woman was last seen. Barbara Veronese, 60, saw a car stop at 15 meters away from her. A man got out. "It was strange. I think he was masturbating. " In the middle of the search for Denise, the case of Covadonga Ayora, a neighbor of Santa Catalina de Somoza, halfway between Astorga and El Ganso, jumped to attention. She denounced an attempted kidnapping by two men traveling in a vehicle. Although no one in the region, nor the Civil Guard, gave some credibility to her story.
Real or fictitious, these events have perturbed the peace of this part of the Camino. Five thousand members are awaiting developments on the Facebook page Help.Denise. Now (Ayuda.Denise.Ahora) created by Richard, a university friend of the missing woman. Richard was the last one to leave the searches in which have participated dozens of people from Astorga. In addition,
foreign pilgrims invite solitary walkers to register online at Buddy System, a military technique copied from the US Army that is used in school camps. Each person appoints a security escort to make a 'chain' and always know where he is.
70% of the 270,000 pilgrims who will travel this year to Compostela are foreigners. To guide them, Ivark Rekve manages since a decade a forum on the internet. "Now is a time when a lot of things have come together and we thought we had to warn people," he explains to justify the last advice to his readers: "We ask you to walk together or in groups in this particular part of the Camino." Rekve insists that, during these years, he never considered necessary a similar notice. "It is not meant to scare anyone, but to inform those who walk through the area." All these warnings and their reflection in the international press have come to affect the atmosphere of harmony and camaraderie that always has been breathing through the route. Mari Mar, a taxi driver in the area, acknowledges that "there are pilgrims asking for my service and they skip the entire stretch."
Conchi Alonso owns the hostel San Javier and the Gaudí cafeteria, where the missing Denise slept and took her last breakfast on Easter Sunday (April 5). "I was here at seven in the morning and she had already left. They walk out there, having a good time. This has never happened. See what the hostel is like!" Indeed, the 75 berths of her place are packed out. Even the Interpol has been there to question her. What has this woman is not telling is why Denise was not in her logbook, which delayed the investigation and forced searches in a wider range during the first week.
During the Xacobeo World Meeting, held in Santiago last week, this case was also discussed. There it was recognized that we must draw a lesson from all this: the need to "differentiate between tourism and pilgrimage, regarding and taking care of the special nature of the pilgrim". Its president in Astorga admits that "
the rules have to be improved, since the current regulation of the Castilla and León does not include the obligation to register the traveler."
Astorga is the end of the monotonous Castilian stages. It gives way to a stretch of old farmlands that have been replaced by Mediterranean scrub with a predominance of holm and gall oaks and beeches. In the distance the Bierzo mountains and harsh slopes of the Iron Cross in Foncebadón are already visible, opening the door to Galicia.
At the roadside, the barista of restaurant Silva serves the last coffees and says goodbye to those who started again the route. For weeks, his tables have been the headquarters of search brigades, dozens of residents, motorists, cyclists or riders.
Juan Silva was born there, he knows the area like nobody and fears the worst. "As if the earth has swallowed her. They have gone to the communes of hippies around all of León and sought even through the sales of lime in case they have buried her. Nothing nothing nothing at all. " The lack of news is exasperating. "If the worst did happen and she is somewhere over here, when the hunting season arrives, maybe the hounds will find her." For now, the dogs of the Giardia Civíl have failed to do this.
You only need to go over the long slope of los Mártires to reach the neighboring Valdeviejas. There, at the door of the chapel of Ecce




one is always greeted by Antonio Martinez Domenech and Agustina del Campo. They are part of this huge family of 'beacons' volunteers along the Camino, always ready to help, guide and advise. Antonio sells four-leaf clovers ("and even five, six, ... I even have eight"), holy cards and Compostelas. He is a temporary hospitalero from Astorga to Rabanal, the newly cursed stretch, and he knows everything about everyone. "It will not turn out well for those who want to scare. People keep going to mass, including many single girls." He has not finished speaking when Eva arrives, a young woman from Navarre who is walking unaccompanied and wants a seal for her accreditation. "Girl, you better not walk alone. If you follow the route without leaving it, you will always see someone in front or behind, " warns Agustina, a woman of 87 years. She passes her years as a widow showing the hermitage and collecting alms to fix the church of Valdeviejas. In mid-June the season is still high. At least 250 people cross each day there. When Eve returns to the track, behind her appear from afar new walking figures.
This is a dirt road well marked and safe: It runs parallel to the road and avoids the crossings, the main cause of accidents so far. But also an area with ponds and lakes, a landscape of nooks and corners similar to the famous Médulas of el Bierzo.
"I have combed this area each morning. I can not find any explanation." Bienvenido Merino is one of those unique characters who appear at any turn. Since 1990 he awaits the pilgrims at the entrance of Santa Catalina de Somoza, halfway to El Ganso. He sings praise to all about the benefits of the hostel San Blas, one of two of the village and run by his grandson Reuben. At a glance he puts 'on file' all of so many thousands who have stopped to talk to him, even if it costs him more effort with the Asians. "Even if I had seen her pass (Denise) I would not recognize her. They are all the same. " But he will never forget one very special person. Actor Charlie Sheen recorded 'The Way' ('El Camino') under thedirection of his son, Emilio Estevez, and let himself be conquered by the stories of this pastor since 12 years. "He gave me a role in the movie and paid me 50 euros. I had to give one of my walking sticks," he jokes proudly.
These are villages who would have died long ago without the steady trickle of pilgrims. So Ruben Merino and the rest of hoteliers are concerned about "a downturn that is being felt. Many people skip this track already." This is not is the option of Robin and Claudette Campbell, a couple in their fifties of Scottish origin. They take a break in El Ganso, end of this particular ground zero. They like to take care of themselves and pay, when possible, for a room instead of the shelters filled with bunks. They have heard of Denise, but are concerned about other things, such as changes in the way young people are doing the Camino. "Why run? Claudette wants to know. They get up at four in the morning so they can arrive first. All that, we already have it at home." At her side, the Munich-based Friedrich is more susceptible. "It is not easy to travel alone. The Government should make it safer. " Jose Gabino, his alberguero, reminds them that "this is not Kathmandu; here no one is alone anymore. " And yet, "
it is as if the girl has evaporated."
Denise Pikka Thiem (41 years, 1.62 tall and 50-53 kilos of weight) was last seen on April 5 on the streets of Astorga. The posters with 'missing' still remain in some hostels on the route Astorga- el Ganso that she wanted to walk on the day she disappeared.
Up to 50 agents of the Guardia Civíl and dozens of neighbors in Astorga participated in the search. They were 'combing' hills, wells have been emptied and some marsh, hippie communes were visited ... In the last citizen search party (June 9) only two people participated. The Police insists: "We continue to look for new clues."
270,000 Pilgrims are expected to complete the Camino de Santiago this year. There will be 33,000 more than in 2014. In June alone 37,000 pilgrims passed 13.6% more than a year ago. Of these, 71% are foreigners. US and Korea are the non-European countries that bring more tourists (behind Italy, France and Germany).
BBM